Smith Island Cake

by Beth on March 1, 2010

On the last weekend of the month of February Noel, we had a party. And a party needs a cake. And since the party was for Noel’s 40th, it was a special cake! But really, do we make any other kind?

the secret ingredient

If you’re not from Maryland, you’re probably wondering what the heck a Smith Island Cake is. Well simply, the state dessert of my home state is a ten layer cake with boiled chocolate icing, traditionally made on a tiny island in the Chesapeake Bay that you can still only reach by ferry boat. Ten layers?! Yes, ten, individually baked, wafer thin layers.

all the batter in a layer

But the thing that really elevates a Smith Island Cake–if something with ten layers NEEDS elevation!–and the thing that drew me to it for Noel’s birthday–is that the cake often features crushed candy, like Reese’s cups, between the layers. Taking something amazing to PHENOMENAL.

boiled chocolate icing

Thing is, I was drawn to this particular cake about 7 months ago, when I came across the recipe in the Washington Post recipe archives. I immediately sent it to Noel, who begged me to make it for his half birthday, and then for every holiday between August and February. My dad even made a good effort to get me to make it for his birthday in December, but I was firm. A cake this big deserved a big debut–so Noel’s birthday it was!

stack it up!

And it was phenomenal. It may not look like much coming together, but as we (Eileen came to help me out–I needed the moral support and the extra set of hands!) stacked up each layer, I had a feeling this cake was going to be something really special. And late on Saturday night when we cut into it, it really was. Yes ten layers are impressive on their own, but it tasted wonderful too. So wonderful, that Noel had two slices. And making the birthday boy happy once more in his special month, that’s really what counts, right?

first cut

Smith Island Cake
Adapted from the Washington Post

A Smith Island Cake seems like quite the challenge, but if you’re tempted to make your own version of this Maryland tradition, take heart, it’s actually not as hard as it looks. All you need is a couple of cake pans and some patience. We made our ten layers in three 8 inch pans, so it was four runs through the oven, with lifting out the layers and washing the pans in between. The best advice I can offer you is, grease those pans well and have a flexible spatula at the ready–you need to run it ALL THE WAY under each layer before you try to remove it from the pan. Unless you want this to happen.

Ingredients:

For the cake

  • 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into chunks; plus more for greasing the pans
  • 3 cups flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 5 large eggs
  • 1 cup evaporated milk
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup water

For the icing

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1 cup evaporated milk
  • 5 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
  • 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1/2 to 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

For the cake: Preheat to 350 degrees. Use butter or non stick cooking spray to grease however many pans you are using, re-grease them as needed, between baking each layer.

Sift together the flour, salt and baking powder.

Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a mixer; beat on medium speed until light and creamy, at least three minutes. Add the eggs one at a time; beat until smooth. Reduce the speed to low and add the sifted dry ingredients 1 cup at a time; beat until incorporated. Still on low speed, add the evaporated milk, then the vanilla and water, beating until well combined.

Place 2/3 cup of batter in each pan; use the back of a spoon or a spatula to spread it evenly. Bake 2 or 3 layers at a time on the middle oven rack for 8 to 9 minutes. To tell if a layer is done, pull it out and hold it to your ear–if you hear it sizzle it’s not done, put it back in for another minute!

While the cakes are baking, make the icing: Combine the sugar and evaporated milk in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the chocolate and butter; warm through, stirring, until both have melted. Increase the heat to medium and cook–it will bubble–stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla extract, stirring to combine. The icing will be thin but will thicken as it cools. If at any point the icing gets too thick, or you think you’re going to run out, put it back on the stove and add a bit of evaporated milk to thin it out.

As the cake layers are done, run a spatula around the edge of the pan and under the layer, then ease it out of the pan. Let the layers cool. Place the bottom layer on a cake plate; spread 2 or 3 spoonfuls of icing on each layer. Don’t worry if a layer tears; no one will notice when the cake is finished. If you want, use crushed candy between the layers, we used Reeses cups and it was DELISH! Cover the top and sides of the cake with the remaining icing; push any icing that runs onto the plate back onto the cake.

Allow icing to set before serving. Share with special people, because this is some amazing cake!

smith island cake

And about this picture, I apologize for not having a picture of a whole slice–but the lighting in the restaurant was just so funky, none of my pictures were very pretty, and this half slice was all that made it home with us. So at least it’s something, and it’s still a beautiful piece of cake art!

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Susan March 1, 2010 at 7:55 am

Great job Beth – I know Noel was quite appreciative.

Wendi March 1, 2010 at 8:09 am

Beth, that cake is phenomenal. I would never have the patience for all those wafer thin layers (and as I type wafer thin, I have John Cleese’s voice from The Meaning of Life in my head).

Beth W March 1, 2010 at 8:22 am

This has to be one of the best looking Smith Island cakes I have ever seen!

Brian March 1, 2010 at 9:49 am

:) My sister-in-law makes this cake all the time…she works for the CBF and lived there during one of their jobs with them. Great cake!

Tracy (Amuse-bouche for Two) March 1, 2010 at 9:58 am

Impressive! It looks great! I would love to try this at some point.

Kate March 1, 2010 at 10:20 am

Beth, your cake is beautiful! And on the matter of ‘real’ cheese… Elizabeth (of Strawberries in Paris) came to stay with me this weekend and we went to a cheesemaking class. We made mozzarella (REAL CHEESE!). It was so easy and we are so excited. If you’re at all interested, you should totally try it, because it’s awesome.

Suzy March 1, 2010 at 10:49 am

Wow, this cake looks amazing! I’ve lived in Maryland for 11 years now (originally from California) and I am still learning of various Maryland traditions…all yummy, by the way.

Astra Libris March 1, 2010 at 11:30 am

I knew as soon as I saw the picture of the PB cups in the food processor that something incredible was in store… :-) Your cake is even more incredible than anything I could have imagined, though! :-) I’m absolutely in awe of the perfection of each individual layer…

LoveFeast Table March 1, 2010 at 12:24 pm

You’re my new hero! The fact that you attempted and succeeded in making such a beautiful cake…well, bye bye Martha, hello Beth!! :)

Biz March 1, 2010 at 4:06 pm

Yep – that cake is definitely insulin worthy – holy cow!! Great job Beth! :D Glad your hubby loved it!

Elizabeth March 1, 2010 at 5:42 pm

beth!! that looks amazing!!

damn you are making me crave peanut butter cups….

Beth March 1, 2010 at 7:31 pm

Thanks everyone!!

Wendi–you HAVE to say *wafer thin* in the John Cleese voice!! we’ve being doing it all weekend!

Kate–Noel has wanted to try cheese making for quite a while. Now that I know someone with success, I may just have to cave and let him try.

Noel March 1, 2010 at 9:21 pm

So, yes – by the way – this cake is incredible tasting. It’s like a giant Reese’s peanut butter cup, but better. I must confess to two things – through a misunderstanding, I apparently ate a third piece that Beth and I were supposed to share; the misunderstanding came in that – when I went into the kitchen Sunday night – there was only a little bit left and I thought that Beth had her bit and left the rest for me. So I ate it. I only feel a little guilty.

Why was it only a little bit left? Apparently – in a drunken fit – I gave away a huge chunk to the bartender and wait staff at the Waterfront Saturday night. I look at it as spreading the glory of Beth’s baking. Hopefully they realized what they had and appreciated it.

I can’t wait for the next Smith Island Cake. This is up there with her chocolate chip cookies, Carbomb Cupcakes, and the Peanut Butter Monstrosity she made last year….. It’s impossible to rank these four….

Melinda March 1, 2010 at 9:24 pm

I am from MD and I had no idea. Where the heck have I been all these years. This looks awesome. I want some right now, oh darn!

Thanks for your comments on my blog. I think next time the pastry dough may be better, but in all honesty, it tasted darn good but was just a tad crumbly.

Beth March 1, 2010 at 9:37 pm

Of course I had to go and say that I would let Noel make cheese on a post he ACTUALLY READS! Gah! Now he’s all excited…

Dad March 2, 2010 at 5:44 pm

Ok….now that the Smith Island cake has had is grand debut. I’m formally submitting my SECOND request for a Smith Island birthday cake!!! Man I got to keep up with this blog or I may miss out on something. :)

Kitchen Butterfly March 5, 2010 at 5:50 pm

Love it….reminds me of the dutch spekkoek – a layered cake, which is baked, layer after layer…..superb job Beth. I want me some!!!!!!!

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